On a trip to Naples in the 1830s, the American inventor and painter Samuel Morse described pizza as looking “like a piece of bread that has been taken reeking out of the sewer.” At the time, pizza was primarily sold by street vendors and comprised a simple base and very few toppings (often just tomato). Consequently, pizza was associated with deprivation and left out of Neapolitan cuisine when cookbooks emerged at the end of the 19th century. Only when Italian immigrants arrived in the United States in the late 1800s did the fate of pizza change. As the dish slowly spread across America, it was tweaked by restaurateurs to appeal to a broader range of communities. Pizza evolved from a no-frills street snack to a dish with a variety of styles and toppings worthy of brick-and-mortar restaurants in every town across the nation. This story is from Kinfolk Issue Forty-Nine Buy Now Related Stories Arts & Culture Food Issue 51 Imogen Kwok The artist takes food styling quite literally, creating accessories out of fruits and vegetables. Food Issue 51 Fruit Plate A Cantonese approach by Calvin Eng. Arts & Culture Food Issue 51 Would a Cheeto Kill a Pilgrim? A vague answer to a minor concern. Food Issue 50 Sopa de Pan A Lil’ Deb’s Oasis recipe. Food Issue 49 Andy Baraghani Out of the kitchen, and onto your plates, shelves and screens. Food Issue 48 Rose Chalalai Singh On cooking for the art world elite.
Arts & Culture Food Issue 51 Imogen Kwok The artist takes food styling quite literally, creating accessories out of fruits and vegetables.