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  • Food
  • Issue 35

Modern Fancy

The humble origins of high-end food.
Words by Pip Usher. Photograph by Hanna Tveite.

Oysters—which used to be sourced from river beds as cheap sustenance for impoverished workers—are now washed down with Champagne. Quinoa, a staple grain from the Andes, has become a costly commodity. Even caviar, a delicacy favored by the Russian elite, was once served as a free bar snack in American saloons in the hope that its saltiness would encourage drinking. If we can learn anything from these once-humble goodies, it’s that even the least glamorous can succeed with the right


This story is from Kinfolk Issue Thirty-Five

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